A hip holiday cottage in Rye, England
Formerly the home of Henry James (and later EF Benson, author of the Mapp & Lucia books, set in a fictional version of Rye), this handsome early-18th-century house includes some of James’s possessions.
The large walled garden – unusual for Rye – offers a tranquil change of pace from the town’s narrow medieval streets. James used to write in the garden’s summerhouse, which was destroyed in the war.
Strand Quay’s Heritage Centre is the gateway to finding out about Rye and its history.
There’s a town model, the focus of a 20-minute show with lighting and a commentary on Rye through the ages (hard to put into words… but it’s good), and a penny arcade where you can amuse yourself with novelties such as the famous Laughing Sailor.
This is also the place to hire an audio guide to take round the streets, or pick up a themed map (creative and literary; pubs and grub; saints and sinners; and ghosts and ghouls). The centre also runs winter ghost walks (dates are online) which includes a spell in the Ypres Tower in the dark, if you dare…
Rye has just a few chain shops and a lot of independents. Trawling its eclectic vintage/antique shops can take a day in itself, and many places present their wares beautifully, making the shopping experience itself a joy, regardless of whether you buy.
Rye Pottery’s charming folk-infused ceramics are having a renaissance in a world newly appreciative of the decorative arts. It is best known for its hand-painted animals and figures, full of lively detail, and its mid-century tableware, including the classic Cottage Stripe design.
The fact that the pottery isn’t sold widely makes a visit to its shop-cum-studio even more of a must (head upstairs to see some of the making in action). As well as its own pieces it sells a small but well-curated selection of homewares and prints.
Gareth McCully and Marcus Crane’s interiors shop – and the interior design business that grew out of it – have a superbly eclectic aesthetic. Taxidermy, religious artefacts, industrial lighting and furniture, posters, signage and original artwork make up the mix in their small shop.
It packs a visual punch yet it’s perfectly balanced; nothing is too polished or precious, so there’s an informality to the overall look, even though it’s dramatically presented. A sister gallery right next door is dedicated to modern and contemporary art.
A big, bustling freehouse with zero pretentions, the Queen’s Head is a lively locals’ pub, with pool table, piano and more than a few good pints. Stand at the bar, get comfy in a big squashy chairs around the stove or be seated for a meal.
The pub is becoming increasingly well known for its food, which is hearty and lovingly cooked from scratch on the premises.
There’s often live music on Saturdays.